BTw, I do have CC.
Ginette
Hi,
Does Jane discuss what to do about metal apron rods that bow when you're tying on?
Thanks.
Is the metal rod attached to your cloth beam in at least 3 places? It sounds like you might be missing a firm attachment in the middle. Can you post a photo of the front of your loom with the metal apron rod and how it's attached to the cloth beam? If you need help posting a photo - check the following link. https://help.schoolofweaving.tv/article/100-uploading-images
Hi again,
Here is the code for images. 
Hi Sandra,
Thanks for your response. There's a bow in the metal rod even though it's attached in more than 3 places. I'm not getting a straight line in the weaving.
Your rod is not the issue, it's well lashed on! Did you evenly secure your warp when you tied on your bouts the way Jane demonstrates in Season 1: Episode 2.6 - Tying onto the Front Apron and Tensioning your Warp? Great photos to demonstrate your issue, thank you!
jollyjeanne
Hi Sandra,
Thanks for your response. Glad the photos were helpful. As far as I can tell, I did evenly secure the warp, following Jane's demonstration. And I still have the problem.
I have bowing of my rods when I have a small width warp on a much wider width loom. ie. 12"- 16" warp on 36" loom. Jane seems to do smaller width warps to accommodate the looms of the many guild weavers. (No small feat!) All the torque is at the center, so after tying on I remove the farthest bar ties loosening the tension to do so. Problem solved. I only keep rod ties involved with warp or closest to it. Wooden rods and/ or bars can also warp over time if not used properly. Bowing is a good indicator to pay attention. You must also make adjustments taking into consideration your particular loom & how the apron bar/ rods are spaced & attached. I also remove unnecessary apron cords or straps when lashing since lashing takes even care of warped area. Also, Jane has answered this question before with a different response as I recall but I cannot find it. When I do find it, I will post it for you, If your weaving is uneven, have you checked that the tension is equal on all your bouts? Some may need to be tightened or loosened a bit.
Thanks for this. I'll try removing the farthest bar ties since the problem seems to be just with the narrower warps. I have checked the tension, but it seems to be even.
The other thing you could try before undoing anything .... do you use Jane's mantra of "Throw, Beat, Change, Beater Back"? You probably do but I'm just wondering if you are giving your weft enough room to evenly spread out in each pick. I don't think undoing the lashing will make a difference. Also, are you weaving at the correct ppi? You have to give your picks the room they need and remember - things will even up in the wash when you finish it. By the way - I love your warp design and colours - keep me posted!
Hi again Sandra,
Thanks for all the time you've been spending on this! Yes, I use Jane's mantra (it revolutionized weaving for me when I first saw her do it). I also am weaving at the correct ppi. I now have 3 inches of preliminary weaving done and the problem seems to have largely disappeared. The weft has smartened up (couldn't be me!). Thanks for saying that you like the warp design and colours. This is my first experiment with designing a gradient and I wanted to use up some of my stash.
So happy it's working out!!! I would normally give a bit more of a buffer between the rod, my woven buffer and when I actually started weaving - to give the warp time to settle into place ;-) Please post photos of your finished project - now that you know how ;-) I'll look forward to seeing the final results.
OK, more buffer! Shall post when finished (now that I have added posting photos to my weaving repertoire LOL)
Hi Sandra,
Here's the code for the final photo. The epi and ppi are 24. I used 2/8 cotton for the warp and 2/16 cotton for the weft. I think the thinner weft prevented it from being too stiff. Is it still considered balanced if the warp and weft are different sizes?
It's beautiful but it does look like a Warp Faced weave structure which isn't 50/50. Did you check the angle of your Twill line by using Jane's method of putting up a folded at an angle post-it note up to your pattern as you were weaving? That's one way of helping you beat towards a balanced cloth. Also, you gave yourself a challenge by using 16/2 as weft, which is half the size of 8/2.
Ginette
I actually have enjoyed being home during the pandemic since I have done a lot of weaving and quilting..... but I do have a small problem. I am having trouble with uploading photos using ImgBB. I can upload at the beginning, but then I can't seem to go anywhere with it. I guess I am not pressing the right buttons. I can't even find the HTML codes section. I'd sure appreciate a little advice and then I can show you my turned twill Xmas towels.
Hi Joy,
Here's a link to images on how to from Resources. At the 'embed codes', click on the arrow and the HTML full linked should pop up.
https://help.schoolofweaving.tv/article/100-uploading-images
Hope this helps!
Ginette ---
This one is still baffling me. I can upload a picture of one of my projects and then click on the HTML full linked but then I'm stuck. I can't seem to go any further. I still need more help. Thanks in advance for your knowledge and patience.
I have another question too. I've been catching up on Season 5 lessons and in episode 9 Jane talks about beginning hemstitching and ending hemstitching. I have no clue what these are working together and would appreciate it if you could point me to the right season and episode where these are explained. Otherwise, an explanation here would suffice. Thanks in advance for your help.
Hi Joy,
In Season 1 Episode 3, there's a downloadable PDF for hemstitching how to for beginning and ending, you'll find them right here
https://www.schoolofweaving.tv/season-1-episode-3-good-weaving-technique
Also, if you'd like to see it, Jane does a great demo of it in Episode 5 right here
https://www.schoolofweaving.tv/season-1-episode-5-project-planning-101-putting-it-all-together/videos/1-5-2-hemstitching
Thank you for heading me in the right direction on hemstitching. It never hurts to review important techniques. I really appreciated this.
I just purchased a Louet David 3 loom and I’m threading it for the first time. Jane says to sit inside the loom to thread, but I cannot find a chair that will straddle the treadles to get me closer to the heddles. Because my chair legs are outside the treadle area, my back is bending and straining. Can someone tell me what chair Jane found that sits in among the treadles and allows for a more relaxed posture when threading? Thank you!!
I use a black fold up chair, purchased as a set of 4 from Costco. The legs slip in perfectly between the treadles on my ashford 8 shaft and also my Leclerc as well. It is a perfect height for threading the heddles and I can get right in close to them. Note— I warp B2F if that makes a difference.
Can you tell me where I can find the episode that Jane shows how to get the frown out of you weaving without retying?
Thank you
There are a number of videos where Jane talks about how to get good selvedges. The best way to find the one that your thinking of is to go to the top of any page and select Search. Type in the word selvedge and a selection of videos pops up where Jane talks about selvedges (including floating - which is not what you are looking for on this search ;-) Another resource is the Knowledge Base that has several items on Selvedges which you can find here Selvedges
That link didn’t work - try this one: https://janestaffordtextiles.com/article-categories/selvedges/
Thank you, I wasn't not actually asking about the selvages, but the frown in the weaving itself. She showed a quick way to tighten or do something that would tighten the warp after you were weaving so you did not have to unweave and re-tie your warp. I believe it was a yellow warp but not sure. If you can't find it that's ok Thank you
Hi Nancy, try this video https://www.schoolofweaving.tv/season-1-episode-5-project-planning-101-putting-it-all-together/videos/1-5-1-intro-to-unfinished-business-tucking-tails around the 10:50 mark.
I did the search above the videos and used 'frown' and it came up as the first one.
OK thank you
Does Jane cover tieing on a new warp to the old? I know that she demonstrates switching out a few ends in some of the videos.
Jane talks about using a pseudo/dummy warp in Season 1, Episode 9 where she uses that method of warping for production weaving. Other than that, it's good practice to wind a new warp for each project as you are learning to weave. It's unlikely that each warp will be the same yarn and width on your loom as the last one you've woven. Practice, practice, practice - is so important 😉