Hi Judith, Are you working on the 8-shaft placemats? For placemat #4 the directions match the photo as far as I can see. For the 8-shaft placemat #4 - it works out to about 19.5 inches long. It is true that the 8-shaft placemats are not all the same size, with the longest #1 about 21.25 inches long, and the shortest #5 about 17.75 inches long. This is just how I wove them as I was looking at a graphic, designing at the loom, and looking at the individual blocks, and not measuring precisely, but, of course, you can add or subtract extra weft picks to make the placemats shorter or longer.
Season 8 Episode 4 - Block Double Weave
Hi Barbara,
Thank you for responding . . . . and 🤦♀️ from me. I *somehow* overlooked the bracket that says “x 2”. It’s clearly there and I had figured out to add it, but a good reminder to me to reread directions. I want you to know I am absolutely loving weaving this—most fun weave to date for me!
I am just starting the weaving on the 8-shaft placemats. I want to fold in the hems like you did in the 4-shaft mats. When I tried to weave a Block A hem I got channels all the way across; how do I get one foldable pocket? I am loving this episode! Thank you!
Hi Lori,
Yes it can be done.
If you want to fold in the hems like I did on the 4 shaft placemats, you will need to change to the tie-up on page 19 in the PDF, to create one clear channel for the hems. (This is the same tie-up to use for the napkins.) Weave the length you want for the hems, and then switch back to the tie-up on page 11 in the PDF to weave the body, and back to the tie-up on page 19 to weave the hem at the other end of the placemat. This was just a lot of changing the tie-up, so I didn't put it in the directions!
Hi again Lori,
Jane says you have a Spring Loom, so:
If you have a Spring Loom, and 12 treadles, then you can use the tie-up on page 11 on the first 8 treadles, and the tie-up on page 19 for the next four treadles. And if you have two more treadles, you can add the checking sheds. If you don't have more treadles you can get then for not a huge expense. So, that should cover most of the placemats, and the tucked hems, and the napkins. So less time under the loom changing tie-ups. You still will need to change the tie-ups slightly for Placemat #6.
Thanks for your quick response Barbara! I had a feeling that might be the solution! My first thought was YIKES but then, having just completed the hemming (albeit 4 threads instead of 8 because I apparently can’t count) I figure it might actually be faster! 🙂 I’m a molasses hemmer!
I just have 10 treadles and it never occurred to me to install more! Great idea! I didn’t find changing the tie-up took much time and I figure I’ll be really speedy by the end!! Because they’re all in the one quadrant I just sat at the back corner with the graph upside-down and changed them out. I have the ones that need changing circled on each diagram so it was easy peasy. I am having a great time figuring this all out and experimenting! Thanks again for your help.
Hi again! I finished the placemats and moved to the napkins on the 8 shaft loom. I have watched the episodes again and read the directions several times. I do not understand the treadling for the napkins. When are the right furthermost treadles (i.e., the plain weave ones) used? I also don't understand that the instructions have a tie-up for Block B and say to follow treadling on 4-shaft instructions. Those instructions show Block A. Maybe there is no difference, but it is confusing to me. Thanks for help.
Hi Judith, thanks for your question.
The napkins are woven as two separate layers. They have to all be woven on Block A treadling, all the way through so that there are no horizontal joins. I didn't show the Block B treadling on page 19 tie-up, because you can do all the napkins on Block A. If you use Block A treadling, you get napkin 1 on top and napkin 2 on the bottom. If you used Block B you would get napkin 2 on top and napkin 1 on the bottom.
The plain weave treadles are the checking sheds and not used in the weaving, but are used if you want to check and see that the two layers are separate from each other. So one plain weave shed lifts the entire top layer and leaves the entire bottom layer down, so you can check to see that there are no mistakes. But you don't actually throw a pick on the plain weave weave. Just for checking.
I hope this makes sense to you.
Thank you, Barbara. Now I understand. I think I must have been crossing the wefts on one side even though I thought I wasn't. I had one side open and one side closed. I can see now how the plain weave shed can be used for checking. I really appreciate your fast response as I am so excited to weave these and get the project off the loom so I can look at both sides. I love, love, love this project!
And Judith, when you are weaving the napkins, just to clarify which colour weft will go on the top, and which will go on the bottom: when you step on the treadle that lifts the top layer (1 & 5) look at which colour warp is up, and that will be the colour weft you use on top. So, if you are looking at the block that has olive and peacock, and 1&5 lifts olive in this block, then use olive on top and peacock on the bottom. If peacock comes up when you lift 1&5 then use peacock on the top and olive on the bottom. When you have completed that square, then moving on to the next square, at the Gold and Apricot square, if Apricot comes up with 1 & 5 then Apricot is on top and Gold is on the bottom.
Anyway, just a visual check, and you can read the colour orders as you move along, and don't even need the chart!
I'm having a problem with separating my 2 layers.
If I'm doing just an A or a B block, I can separate my selvages but the fabric joins across the width where the blocks / colours change.
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks
Susan :)
Hi Susan,
I am assuming you are working with the 8 shaft Block Double Weave. With 8 shafts, if you want to have a weft that goes from selvedge to selvedge on one layer, then change to the tie-up shown on page 19, which is what we are using for the napkins. You can also use this tie-up if you want to weave one layer straight across to tuck the hems in.
For the 8 shaft placemats, the tie-up for the placemats will have the same weft pick going across the top for the warp A block and across the bottom for the warp B block, so that is why you have vertical joins where the blocks change colour.
There are so many things you can do with block double weave, but hopefully the change in tie-up will give you what you want.
Wow! Thanks so much for the fast response. Much appreciated.
Makes sense.
Thanks again,
Susan
The -placemats and napkins are off the loom and on the table. They are so colorful! I loved weaving them and am wanting to do another version. Thank you, Barbara! I have a David III loom and wondered if it sturdy enough to do a rep weave (table runner) version with heavier warp to make a rug. Any thoughts?
So happy you are enjoying weaving. I don't have a David III, so I checked with Jane. She says the David III is strong enough to weave anything. I would love to see a picture of how your rep rug turns out!
Judith, just some encouragement….i used my Schacht 27” 8 shaft loom to weave 2x3 rugs with 8/4 cotton rug warp set at 6 epi and Collingwood rug yarn for the weft. I used the damascus knot hemming Jane taught us in the weft faced twill lesson and they are wonderful! You will love yours when it is done! My washing machine has a hand wash cycle and since i use mine for bath mats i thought “let’s try it” and i couldn’t be happier for how they turn out. I dry them over the shower rod. No fears! Enjoy!!
Thank you, Jacqui, Barbara, and Jane! I am so excited to try rug weaving! I don't have an account for the picture adding--can I email it to you, Barbara?
Hi Judith,
You don't need to have an account to post pictures. It will let you do it without logging in.
Here's the link on how-to
https://help.schoolofweaving.tv/article/100-uploading-images
Good Morning!
I have a question about treadling the 8 shaft placements. I made the first placemats and it does not look the same as Barbara's - I think that I'm misunderstanding something....even though I've watched the video and read the draft! To treadle the Block B - using the Red and Pale Orange - do I use the Red color first pick, followed by the Orange, second pick, Red again, and then Orange. Or should I use Orange, followed by Red....? The directions say to Tromp as Writ, but when I threaded it, I threaded Orange followed by Red.
It may be that I cannot see the picture colors correctly - but what I see is a solid Red block. My threadling is producing a mixed color block.
I absolutely love this project - just need a little help on this question - thank you so much!